After trial fitting the engine mounts while the stripped block hung on the crane, I realised that the mounts which I thought were 3/4" forward were actually normal position ones. I pulled the block back clear and re-fitted the old front engine mounts as a guide, then lowered it back in and tightened it up. Try as I might, the mounts would not fit far enough forward without being pushed out by the chassis rivets. In the position that the instructions showed, they were about 1/2" too far back. After hours of fitting and refitting, I decided to grind the middle chassis rivet out and tack the mounts in place. I got my nice shiny new mig out, guessed what the settings should be, and gave it a go. Hmm. Not enough penetration, bit more power. Nope still on the surface. I’ll adjust this other dial. It keeps cutting off before you can get a decent weld going, and I end up with a load of poor welds that need to be ground off. So I did. Couple of tacks on the other side, just as bad. Hmmm. I gave up for the day and decided to try again on Sunday on some scrap metal. Same problem. Hmmm. Then it dawned on me. One of the dials is a spot weld timer. Set it to maximum and I can weld properly. Well better anyway! Couple of decent tack welds either end of the drivers side bracket and a few over some of the ground out bad welds on the passenger side and it was time to try again with the engine hanging on the new brackets. Fit like a glove. Well a boxing glove. the brackets are both flat against the frame, and the top rivet. But the passenger side one is a few degrees different. The motor fits on, but its still different. It looks like a different angle to the other bracket. Ah well. I have just enough clearance for a HEI (I Think!), but i’ve got a normal sized distributor anyway. I’ll look at this again when I get my trans crossmember.